Feel free to contact me for *current pricing or with any questions.
*My prices are based on pose, compostion and choice blank which are
individual to all mounts.
PO Box 388
Armour, SD 57313
Cell: (605) 770-8968 - Call anytime.
Shipping to us:
Fish and Birds
After following the freezing instructions (see below), insert
specimen into a well padded, insulated box. A box lined with Styrofoam
or a cheap cooler will work well. Use crumpled newspaper to suspend
specimen in center box and protect it from shipping damage.
- Ship on a Monday, next day (overnight) to me. Call us ahead of time
so I can watch out for it.
- YOU ARE REQUIRED BY LAW to put the following information on the
outside of the box:
Name and signature
Address and phone number
Type and sex of specimen/s inside
Where collected and when
Field Care Tips:
Fish and Birds
If you plan to get your deer mounted and can't get it to me that night,
simply cape it out and freeze him until you can. If not, slippage of
hair can start faster then you woudl think - this is when your deer's
muscle tissue under the hair stays hot too long and bacterial growth
begins causing the hair to fall out later. (Imagine taking a nice rib
eye steak, warming it up to 98 degrees, putting a coat on it, and let
it stay in the sun that way for a couple days. Think it would stay edible?
Nope - rotten.) A caped deer left in a really cold area for
a day or 2 can be OK but, not really recommended at
all. The unfortunate thing is, I won't always know the extent of slippage
until after your deer has been professionally tanned. No one wants to
pay for a prepped and tanned cape that's no good. Take the right, simple
steps and make sure your trophy is well cared for.
- Do not cut open chest cavity any farther forward than the front
legs. Cut hide off the body, behind the front legs and tube cut the
cape all the way to the base of his skull. There, cut the neck meat
away leaving about 3 inches of neck attached to the head for me to
use as a proper means to measure. I would prefer to skin the detailed
areas above this point.
- If going on a long hunt with a guide, he'll know how to totally
skin your cape and salt it when there are no freezers available. I
can give you instructions ahead of time on what to do if going it
alone for a long hunt.
- Call ahead of time for a skinning diagram or get it to me while.
What is a replica and why should I have one done?
A replica is a copy of a fish made from a mold off an actual (dead)
fish. Thus, the detail is exact. The fish are casts from these molds
in Urethane and Polyester resins (fibre-glass). These fish blanks made
in these cured resins will not shrink and are painted with acrylic lacquers
(like car paints) and coated in UV clear coats which will virtually
last forever. The extra cost of generating the blank and the labor intensive
paint job bring the price higher than traditional fish mounting.
Replica fish mounts are great for several reasons:
- When you catch and release a big fish or you've gone on a trip fishing
in a restricted harvesting area.
- You've caught a salt water fish or trout. They are generally really
oily and hard to skin mount. They are also hard to get back to a taxidermist
and they taste good.
- Finally, one of the most popular reasons for getting a replica done
is hindsight. You had wished you would have kept a fish that you had
let go for whatever reason. Just find the pictures, get me some measurements
and Bam! You can have that memory back and on the wall.
There are blanks available for almost any fish in almost any size and
pose you can imagine. I only work with the best blanks available.